Museo del Prado
Give the morning to the Museo del Prado, one of the great art museums anywhere and the anchor of Madrid's so-called Golden Triangle of art. The building is enormous, so the trick for a couple is the same one that works everywhere: pick a handful of rooms rather than grinding through the whole floor plan. Velázquez's Las Meninas and Goya's Black Paintings are the two things almost nobody skips, and both reward slowing down rather than photographing and moving on. Two focused hours here beat four tired ones. Logistics: arrive close to opening to beat the tour groups; bags and coats go in the free cloakroom.
From the Prado it's a five-minute walk to the Parque del Retiro, the city's grand 19th-century park and the natural place to decompress after a museum morning. Wander to the Palacio de Cristal, a glass-and-iron pavilion in the trees, and to the Estanque Grande, the park's central lake, where rowboats are available if you want an easy, slightly silly hour on the water. Logistics: the park is enormous and shaded — plan on an unhurried hour or two, more if you take a boat.
Museo del Prado
Photo: GUSTAVO SLVDRS