A Christmas markets weekend in Prague

The spires of the Church of Our Lady before Týn rise straight behind the great tree, and the pastel Gothic and Baroque façades would stop you even without the stalls of mulled wine, roasted sausages and hand-blown ornaments. On the hour, join the crowd under the Astronomical Clock on the Old Town Hall tower, first installed in the 15th century and one of the oldest still working, for its short mechanical show. Get there a few minutes early for a clear view.

Its Art Nouveau café, all gilt and stained glass, has been a gathering place for over a century, and coffee and cake there is the elegant way to wait out the weather.

Climb to Prague Castle, seat of Czech rulers for over a thousand years, and spend the late morning inside St. Vitus Cathedral, its rose windows and flying buttresses centuries in the making. The courtyards look out over a sea of red roofs. Then wander down through the Lesser Town and reach Charles Bridge at dusk: the lamps come on, the daytime crowds thin, and the castle glows on the hill behind you. The 14th-century bridge, lined with Baroque statues, costs nothing and gives you the city's most romantic five minutes.

The enormous frescoed dome and gilded Baroque interior are a jolt of warmth after grey streets, and a short visit still leaves time for the bridge once the weather eases.

The square saw major demonstrations in the 20th century, so the stalls stand on real history. By now you know which stall had what you wanted: this is the morning for souvenirs. Then drift back through the Old Town by whichever lanes catch your eye.

On a bitter last morning, the extensively restored National Museum at the top of Wenceslas Square offers grand halls and a striking central staircase, an unhurried indoor hour before onward travel.